Kampala

I came to Kampala yesterday on the same Cessna that took me to Bwindi.  We left Buhma at 0830 for a 1055 flight.  I had to borrow a couple thousand shillings from Patrick because I had too generously tipped the Batwas people and the guide, and didn't have quite enough for the driver.  As interest, I gave him some of my hoarded jerky.  He was smiling as I left.  Down we went, back down the red roads, muddy from the rain, gullies from washouts--people, motorbikes, other vehicles all using the 1 1/2 lanes that are graded.  About halfway there, the driver (they all tell me their names, and if they'd spell them, I could maybe understand, but even though I repeat it twice, I just can't remember) stopped for petrol.  The man at the pump said "no power".  The driver looked at the gauge and said: "We'll make it", but I knew he wouldn't have stopped if he thought so, because I hadn't paid him yet.  I heard his woeful story about needing a sponsor to help him set up his mechanics business.  He needed "spanners" of many sizes of course, which he hadn't got.

So we drove on, rain showers, sun showers, green all around, people in their Easter clothes headed for church all around, and stopped again in another village--no explanation.  I think he was trying to find some gas in containers, but didn't have any luck.  I asked him to stop at the bank in Kihihi, where the airport is, so I could get some cash, and it looked like there might be power there.  So I sent him off for gas (gave him the money I owed him and said, "Don't you leave me here!", he replying, "Madam, I could not!") and the bank was out of power as well.  The man waiting (and the security guard holding a rifle, but smiling) said that they had gone to start the generator and it would be just a few minutes, he thought.  So I waited, and when the driver came back and there was still no power, I gave up and we left.

The plane was waiting for me, on the dirt runway, already loaded with people from the tourist camps who had seen the gorillas.  No formalities like ticket checking or baggage screening.  Up went my luggage, and up I went on the other side into the seat, and off we took.

The taxi driver bringing me into Kampala told me that the hotel I had reserved was not good, so he brought me here to the Holiday Express Hotel (I don't think there's any relation).  Andrew, at the front desk (see?--he has a non-African name) became my new best friend.  All is bedlam in the streets, they are under construction, there are no signs, traffic (on Easter Sunday, no less) is horrific, and I was terrified to go out of the hotel, not only for the chaos, I was afraid I'd get lost if I turned a corner, mugged, and/or run over.  So he took me to get a Uganda phone (across the street), so that I can call Jane and the driver I'll need to get me to the meeting we have scheduled at Uganda Christian University, and then back to Kampala for a meeting, and then on to her village, if we don't get a ride from others attending.  The phone man had a display that included Nokia and other brand names, and I told Andrew, that I just wanted the cheapest..Of course he said, "Don't worry; they're all made in China".  So I picked the cheapest, then bought a SIM card, which was installed for me.  They we went out to the street, and a man with a stack of cards sold me 10,000 Ush (Uganda shillings) worth of time.  Andrew loaded it up, and I have a phone, and it works.  (Of course I called home first.)  The phone and minutes cost 70,000 Ush--maybe $25-$30 total.  (Oh, I forgot to say that I got money in the airport...only one of 3 ATMs was working).

The hotel room is like a room from a harem, all gold and red, with mosquito nets hanging from the ceiling draped artistically.  The windows open (screened, no less) and there's also A/C in the room as well as a fan.  There is a restaurant here and I had a beer and a hamburger for a late lunch yesterday, a pretty good breakfast, and a very good chicken salad (no mayonnaise, trying not to have any--I've seen how it's stored) sandwich with avocado and fresh tomato on a french roll today for lunch.  But I scandalized the wait staff when I asked to buy two soft drinks to bring up to my room.  I had to promise to call down for them next time, and a waitress had to carry them up for me.

I asked the hotel to arrange a taxi and went out to do some shopping--not much open on Mondays, it turns out, but I did buy some small gifts, tried on some shoes (my feet are way bigger than African women), and made a date for tomorrow with the driver to do some serious shopping, AND go to a Chinese restaurant for lunch.  I have to buy a wedding dress, and a wedding gift, after all.

It's true, Ugandans are very nice people.  Although I did accidentally have some cash in my hand that I hadn't put away, and felt these eyes on me that weren't at all friendly, and the taxi driver made me put my pack on the floor instead of on my lap...sorry, wasn't thinking briefly.

No pictures today, I promise some tomorrow.  The city is very dirty and chaotic, but works, (there's a sewer system and a subway system) and the people are very professional and helpful, those that I've met.  The person at the shoe store was genuinely sorry that she didn't have my size and the woman at the African arts shop discussed the dress I was considering buying for my granddaughter in detail with me, when I was wondering whether it would fit.